Frequently Asked Questions
Q: IF I DECIDE THAT I NO LONGER WANT A PUPPY, CAN I GET MY DEPOSIT BACK?
Deposits are non-refundable. Placing a deposit is a commitment to purchase a puppy, putting a hold on him/her. By putting a hold on a puppy for you, we are not offering it to anyone else, losing potential homes for the puppy.
However, you can transfer your deposit to a future litter (maximum of 3x). If there are existing deposits on the litter you choose to transfer to, your pick of puppy will come after the ones already placed on said litter.
Deposits are non-refundable. Placing a deposit is a commitment to purchase a puppy, putting a hold on him/her. By putting a hold on a puppy for you, we are not offering it to anyone else, losing potential homes for the puppy.
However, you can transfer your deposit to a future litter (maximum of 3x). If there are existing deposits on the litter you choose to transfer to, your pick of puppy will come after the ones already placed on said litter.
Q: WILL YOU SHIP YOUR PUPPIES?
Although we prefer to meet our puppy buyers in person, we will consider shipping puppies via cargo within Canada on direct flights only. We are happy to meet you at the Ottawa Airport if you wish to fly in and bring the puppy back with you as carry on. All shipping costs (shipping or carry-on fees, crate etc) are the responsibility of the buyer.
We are not willing to ship puppies via cargo on flights with multiple stops or outside Canada at this time.
Although we prefer to meet our puppy buyers in person, we will consider shipping puppies via cargo within Canada on direct flights only. We are happy to meet you at the Ottawa Airport if you wish to fly in and bring the puppy back with you as carry on. All shipping costs (shipping or carry-on fees, crate etc) are the responsibility of the buyer.
We are not willing to ship puppies via cargo on flights with multiple stops or outside Canada at this time.
Q: CAN I BRING MY DOG WHEN I COME TO VISIT OR PICK UP MY PUPPY?
NO. Sorry, we do not allow outside dogs on our property. This is for the safety of our puppies. Adult dogs can carry illnesses (on their coat, paws etc.) that can harm puppies before they receive age appropriate vaccinations.
NO. Sorry, we do not allow outside dogs on our property. This is for the safety of our puppies. Adult dogs can carry illnesses (on their coat, paws etc.) that can harm puppies before they receive age appropriate vaccinations.
Q: WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO SOCIALIZE MY PUPPY?
Let's start by saying where NOT to socialize your puppy: the dog park. Your puppy is it a critical age for learning behaviors or making associations. The dog park (though it sounds like a blast) is one of the worst places to socialize your young and impressionable pup. Dog parks are filled with dogs that have no manners, and owners who aren't paying close enough attention to what their dogs are doing.
To start your puppy off right, you're best to set up play dates with similar aged puppies, or well mannered adult dogs you know in the comfort of your or their back yard/home. Puppy Kindergarten classes at reputable training locations are also a great tool. Instructors will teach you what kind of play is appropriate, and when to take "time outs" when play gets too intense. We take all of the puppies we keep to one of these classes, and we find ourselves learning something new every time!
Let's start by saying where NOT to socialize your puppy: the dog park. Your puppy is it a critical age for learning behaviors or making associations. The dog park (though it sounds like a blast) is one of the worst places to socialize your young and impressionable pup. Dog parks are filled with dogs that have no manners, and owners who aren't paying close enough attention to what their dogs are doing.
To start your puppy off right, you're best to set up play dates with similar aged puppies, or well mannered adult dogs you know in the comfort of your or their back yard/home. Puppy Kindergarten classes at reputable training locations are also a great tool. Instructors will teach you what kind of play is appropriate, and when to take "time outs" when play gets too intense. We take all of the puppies we keep to one of these classes, and we find ourselves learning something new every time!
Q: WHEN CAN I SPAY/NEUTER MY PUPPY?
Our sales contract requires your puppy to be altered by their 1st birthday*. We ask that you wait until at least 8 months old (32 weeks from day of birth), as our dogs tend to grow until this age. Please note: Altering prior to 32 weeks of age will void the 2 year genetic health guarantee.
Special consideration to extend this deadline for alteration will only be given to serious performance homes where altering later is ideal*
Our sales contract requires your puppy to be altered by their 1st birthday*. We ask that you wait until at least 8 months old (32 weeks from day of birth), as our dogs tend to grow until this age. Please note: Altering prior to 32 weeks of age will void the 2 year genetic health guarantee.
Special consideration to extend this deadline for alteration will only be given to serious performance homes where altering later is ideal*
Q: DO I NEED TO TAKE MY PUPPY/DOG TO PUPPY KINDERGARTEN OR OBEDIENCE CLASSES?
In our contract we do not require you attend either of these classes, but we strongly recommend doing so. Temperament is greatly influenced by socialization and training, particularly in the first year of a dogs life.
A knowledgable trainer can point out things you may not have realized you were doing (or not doing), and can alter their methods to your dogs learning style. We regularly take classes with our dogs whether it's agility, barn hunt, handling, or whatever! There has never been a time where we don't learn/take something from the class. Participating in these classes tends to strengthen the bond between yourself and your dog as well.
In our contract we do not require you attend either of these classes, but we strongly recommend doing so. Temperament is greatly influenced by socialization and training, particularly in the first year of a dogs life.
A knowledgable trainer can point out things you may not have realized you were doing (or not doing), and can alter their methods to your dogs learning style. We regularly take classes with our dogs whether it's agility, barn hunt, handling, or whatever! There has never been a time where we don't learn/take something from the class. Participating in these classes tends to strengthen the bond between yourself and your dog as well.
Q: WHAT COMES IN THE PUPPY PACK?
Puppy pack can vary slightly between litters, but the general contents include:
Puppy pack can vary slightly between litters, but the general contents include:
- Blanket/towel that smells like mom/siblings/our home
- Basic collar and training leash
- Enough food for 1 week
- Treats
- Toy
- AKC or AKC/FSS Limited Registration Application (no breeding rights - puppies sold as pets only)
- Microchip tag and information
- Vaccination and deworming records
- "What's in the bag?" info sheet
- Copy of Non-Breeding Sales Contract
- Health testing records on all parents available via Google Drive (save the trees!)
- 1 year membership to MASCAN (Miniature American Shepherds of Canada)
- Invite to our private Facebook group where you can share photos, videos, ask questions or plan play dates with others in your area. We also upload helpful info in the file section for your new puppy (available via Google Drive if you don't have Facebook)
- At least bi-weekly photos from birth to the time puppies go home (sent via Google Drive or Dropbox)
- 30 days of pet insurance from go-home date with immediate coverage (you must sign up for this/opt in)
- Us as a resource for the life of your dog
TLC Puppy Food
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Toy in puppy pack varies, but generally one that squeaks or crinkles!
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Blanket that smells like mom/siblings/our home
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Treat brand varies
(Crumps Mini Trainers are our favourite though!) |
Q: WHAT DOES ALL THE HEALTH TESTING MEAN?
Q: CAN I BUY TWO PUPPIES AT ONCE?
We will not sell multiple puppies (of the same or similar age) to the same household. Please read the following regarding "Littermate Syndrome"
We will not sell multiple puppies (of the same or similar age) to the same household. Please read the following regarding "Littermate Syndrome"
Q: CAN I SEE A COPY OF YOUR SALES CONTRACT?
Of course! You will find that HERE
Of course! You will find that HERE
Q: HOW DOES THE WAITLIST WORK?
Firstly, we do not require a deposit to be placed on our waitlist. You must submit an application, and if your application is approved you will be placed on our waitlist. Ideally we'd love to have your commitment to our program and be willing to wait for a puppy from us, but we understand some people cannot. We put in time and effort to keep our waitlist updated and organized, so I simply ask that you do us the courtesy of letting us know if you get a puppy from another reputable breeder or reputable rescue so we may keep our waitlist up to date.
We primarily structure our waitlist in the order applications are approved. Some consideration is given to your ideal timeframe to bring puppy home, and if there are any particular litters you are interested in. We will also try to take sex and colour preferences into consideration, however, our biggest and most important consideration is finding the best fit for each puppy and family based on your experience, lifestyle, and what you are looking for in your future puppy. Once we make our selection from a litter (between 7-8 weeks of age), we then provide our assessments of each puppy available to families (in order of the waitlist) and provide our suggestions for which puppy (or puppies) would suit best.
Our goal as a breeder is to set our puppy families up for success, and do right by our puppies, so, here is an example scenario:
Your 1st preference is a blue merle female
Your 2nd preference is a blue merle male
Your 3rd preference is a black or red tri female
You would like a medium energy dog with a good off switch who has little to no reserve, and will be great with kids
These are the puppies available to you:
1- Red Merle male, slight reserve, an instigator among his litter-mates, the last to "wave the white flag" for a nap
2- Black Tri male, relatively outgoing, one of the first to put himself to bed after playing, ok with a lot of handling, gentle (as far as puppies go)
3- Blue Merle female, slight reserve, often finding ways to entertain herself, usually second to last to go down for a nap after play, eager and intense when "working" (i.e when we do our clicker training sessions)
Alas, it is your pick selection from a litter, and there happens to be a blue merle female (your preferred colour and sex!). I will not recommend nor allow you to choose the blue merle female in this instance as I don't think she would be a good fit based on your temperament preferences. I would also not recommend the red merle male. Though not one of your preferences, my pick for your family would be puppy #2, as this puppy is likely to be a good match based on your desired temperament for your future dog. At this point you may opt to add puppy #2 to your family, or you may transfer your deposit to a future litter where you will get another chance for the best fit, but in your preferred sex and/or colour. Though it should be noted, the same scenario could take place again, as we have no control over what sex or colour of puppies are born.
I have no problem with people having sex or colour preferences! It just needs to be known it may be a longer wait to bring home a puppy that not only has your ideal temperament, but that is also the sex and/or colour you prefer.
Firstly, we do not require a deposit to be placed on our waitlist. You must submit an application, and if your application is approved you will be placed on our waitlist. Ideally we'd love to have your commitment to our program and be willing to wait for a puppy from us, but we understand some people cannot. We put in time and effort to keep our waitlist updated and organized, so I simply ask that you do us the courtesy of letting us know if you get a puppy from another reputable breeder or reputable rescue so we may keep our waitlist up to date.
We primarily structure our waitlist in the order applications are approved. Some consideration is given to your ideal timeframe to bring puppy home, and if there are any particular litters you are interested in. We will also try to take sex and colour preferences into consideration, however, our biggest and most important consideration is finding the best fit for each puppy and family based on your experience, lifestyle, and what you are looking for in your future puppy. Once we make our selection from a litter (between 7-8 weeks of age), we then provide our assessments of each puppy available to families (in order of the waitlist) and provide our suggestions for which puppy (or puppies) would suit best.
Our goal as a breeder is to set our puppy families up for success, and do right by our puppies, so, here is an example scenario:
Your 1st preference is a blue merle female
Your 2nd preference is a blue merle male
Your 3rd preference is a black or red tri female
You would like a medium energy dog with a good off switch who has little to no reserve, and will be great with kids
These are the puppies available to you:
1- Red Merle male, slight reserve, an instigator among his litter-mates, the last to "wave the white flag" for a nap
2- Black Tri male, relatively outgoing, one of the first to put himself to bed after playing, ok with a lot of handling, gentle (as far as puppies go)
3- Blue Merle female, slight reserve, often finding ways to entertain herself, usually second to last to go down for a nap after play, eager and intense when "working" (i.e when we do our clicker training sessions)
Alas, it is your pick selection from a litter, and there happens to be a blue merle female (your preferred colour and sex!). I will not recommend nor allow you to choose the blue merle female in this instance as I don't think she would be a good fit based on your temperament preferences. I would also not recommend the red merle male. Though not one of your preferences, my pick for your family would be puppy #2, as this puppy is likely to be a good match based on your desired temperament for your future dog. At this point you may opt to add puppy #2 to your family, or you may transfer your deposit to a future litter where you will get another chance for the best fit, but in your preferred sex and/or colour. Though it should be noted, the same scenario could take place again, as we have no control over what sex or colour of puppies are born.
I have no problem with people having sex or colour preferences! It just needs to be known it may be a longer wait to bring home a puppy that not only has your ideal temperament, but that is also the sex and/or colour you prefer.
Q: HOW ARE YOUR PUPPIES RAISED?
We have recently (late 2019) come across the Puppy Culture program. We will be following PC protocols with all our litters going forward, and we recommend that our puppy owners continue the PC methods, as we feel it will provide our puppies with the best start possible!
WEEKS 1-2
The whelping box is set up in our laundry room a week prior to due date, and mom has this room entirely to herself. The first 2 weeks are quiet time for mom and puppies, no outside visitors are allowed during this period. Puppies are weighed twice per day in the first week to ensure proper weight gain, and daily in week 2. At 3 days of age, we begin Scent of the Day (puppies are introduced to a different item to smell daily) as well as ENS (Early Neurological Stimulation) until the 16th day.
The benefits of ENS:
By week 2 (sometimes earlier) their nails will need to be trimmed for the first time, thus starts weekly nail trimming. We start to take puppies individually for short periods of time and rest them on our chest while watching TV. Puppies are wormed with Strongid for the first time at 2 weeks of age.
WEEK 3
Puppies are weighed weekly from now on. End of week 2/beginning of week 3 we introduce pee pads/pellets into the whelping box to start potty training. The puppies eyes/ears start to open, and thus the socialization period begins. We work on the startle/recovery PC protocol throughout this week, and different objects and toys will be introduced for puppies to explore and interact with. In the warmer months, puppies may make short trips outside at this age.
WEEK 4
Puppies graduate to an x-pen with a little more room - potty area is maintained, with a more definite sleep area (crate with open door, or bedding raised higher than the potty area). Puppies are introduced to different types of toys. This is when we begin spending time with each puppy individually away from mom and litter-mates. This is to help with separation problems, promoting independence and human bonding. This is when we generally introduce some puppy mush (ground up kibble mixed with goat's milk). This week we have our first Puppy Party where deposit holders within driving distance are able to come and meet the litter for the first time. Puppies are wormed with Strongid for the second time.
WEEK 5
This is when the really good stuff starts! Once puppies are enthusiastic about food/treats, we work on Barrier Challenges and Powering Up The Clicker. This continues into week 6 and forward. Weather permitting, puppies are going outside regularly for short periods by this time.
We also introduce multiple open crates to the puppies in their pen at this time.
WEEK 6
This week, after we have worked on powering up the clicker, we begin work on The Box Game, Resource Guarding, Manding, and more. The puppies natural fearfulness starts to be shaped by their environment - we continue to add more toys and obstacles for the puppies to encounter. Uneven surfaces, toys that make noise etc, anything that will help the puppies with their development. This is also when we will have our second Puppy Party, which is more training based/interactive to introduce new owners to PC, and work on continuing the puppies development. Puppies are wormed with Strongid for the third time. Puppies start being fed in individual crates at this age.
WEEK 7
We introduce more challenging toys that make noise or move on their own. Puppies will be taken for their first (short) car ride. Weather permitting, they are also enjoying longer times playing outdoors, where they are exposed to grass, sand/dirt, gravel, trees, and the sounds of birds, and chipmunks/squirrels.
WEEK 8
At or just before 8 weeks, the puppies will get their vet check, first set of vaccinations and microchip. Currently we are very lucky and have the veterinarian come to our house, which has proven to be pretty slick! Depending on their DOB, puppies will go home sometime between 8-9 weeks of age. All puppies are bathed, blow dried, and have nails trimmed before going home with their new families.
We have recently (late 2019) come across the Puppy Culture program. We will be following PC protocols with all our litters going forward, and we recommend that our puppy owners continue the PC methods, as we feel it will provide our puppies with the best start possible!
WEEKS 1-2
The whelping box is set up in our laundry room a week prior to due date, and mom has this room entirely to herself. The first 2 weeks are quiet time for mom and puppies, no outside visitors are allowed during this period. Puppies are weighed twice per day in the first week to ensure proper weight gain, and daily in week 2. At 3 days of age, we begin Scent of the Day (puppies are introduced to a different item to smell daily) as well as ENS (Early Neurological Stimulation) until the 16th day.
The benefits of ENS:
- Improved cardio vascular performance (heart rate)
- Stronger heart beats
- Stronger adrenal glands
- More tolerance to stress
- Greater resistance to disease
By week 2 (sometimes earlier) their nails will need to be trimmed for the first time, thus starts weekly nail trimming. We start to take puppies individually for short periods of time and rest them on our chest while watching TV. Puppies are wormed with Strongid for the first time at 2 weeks of age.
WEEK 3
Puppies are weighed weekly from now on. End of week 2/beginning of week 3 we introduce pee pads/pellets into the whelping box to start potty training. The puppies eyes/ears start to open, and thus the socialization period begins. We work on the startle/recovery PC protocol throughout this week, and different objects and toys will be introduced for puppies to explore and interact with. In the warmer months, puppies may make short trips outside at this age.
WEEK 4
Puppies graduate to an x-pen with a little more room - potty area is maintained, with a more definite sleep area (crate with open door, or bedding raised higher than the potty area). Puppies are introduced to different types of toys. This is when we begin spending time with each puppy individually away from mom and litter-mates. This is to help with separation problems, promoting independence and human bonding. This is when we generally introduce some puppy mush (ground up kibble mixed with goat's milk). This week we have our first Puppy Party where deposit holders within driving distance are able to come and meet the litter for the first time. Puppies are wormed with Strongid for the second time.
WEEK 5
This is when the really good stuff starts! Once puppies are enthusiastic about food/treats, we work on Barrier Challenges and Powering Up The Clicker. This continues into week 6 and forward. Weather permitting, puppies are going outside regularly for short periods by this time.
We also introduce multiple open crates to the puppies in their pen at this time.
WEEK 6
This week, after we have worked on powering up the clicker, we begin work on The Box Game, Resource Guarding, Manding, and more. The puppies natural fearfulness starts to be shaped by their environment - we continue to add more toys and obstacles for the puppies to encounter. Uneven surfaces, toys that make noise etc, anything that will help the puppies with their development. This is also when we will have our second Puppy Party, which is more training based/interactive to introduce new owners to PC, and work on continuing the puppies development. Puppies are wormed with Strongid for the third time. Puppies start being fed in individual crates at this age.
WEEK 7
We introduce more challenging toys that make noise or move on their own. Puppies will be taken for their first (short) car ride. Weather permitting, they are also enjoying longer times playing outdoors, where they are exposed to grass, sand/dirt, gravel, trees, and the sounds of birds, and chipmunks/squirrels.
WEEK 8
At or just before 8 weeks, the puppies will get their vet check, first set of vaccinations and microchip. Currently we are very lucky and have the veterinarian come to our house, which has proven to be pretty slick! Depending on their DOB, puppies will go home sometime between 8-9 weeks of age. All puppies are bathed, blow dried, and have nails trimmed before going home with their new families.